Discovering the Independence Trail

Northern California is the absolute best place in the whole world to go hiking. The wealth of outdoor goodness we have is the biggest reason why whenever someone tells me they’re moving to Phoenix or Bakersfield, all I can say is, “Really? Have you also considered a prefrontal lobotomy?” That’s because right here, in our proverbial backyard, we have hikes for every season, through almost every type of scenery, and at just about any difficulty level you could possibly desire. In fact, one of the easiest, most accessible mountain trails in our region also happens to be one of the prettiest. Nevada City’s famed Independence Trail was built so even those who are wheelchair-bound can enjoy the natural beauty of the Sierra Nevada foothills. Wide and flat, with gentle switchbacks and the most gradual of slopes, the Independence Trail is also a great place to walk with really little kids or older family members.

The foundation for this trail was laid almost a century and a half ago in the heady days of the California gold rush. A twenty-seven mile cut was made in the mountainside to form The Excelsior Canal, which trafficked water from Grass Valley to Smartsville for use in hydraulic mining. (Yes, there is really a town named Smartsville, which is actually dullsville, compared to Fiddle Town.) After the state put the breaks on hydraulic mining, the canal was used for agricultural irrigation, until it was abandoned in 1967.

In the mid-1970s, John Olmstead rediscovered the canal, with its wooden flumes bridging the ravines. He was inspired by a friend of his, a man who dreamed of experiencing the wilderness along a level trail he might access from his wheelchair. And that’s exactly what the Independence Trail offers today. With help from volunteers, Olmstead saw the canal repurposed in 1978, when it became the nation’s first wheelchair accessible hiking trail.

Currently the Independence Trail has two and a half miles of completely accessible trails to explore. Unlike a lot of wheelchair accessible outdoor spaces, this trail actually lets you escape the sounds of civilization. The road noise disappears as you wind your way further and further through the oaks, pines, and fir trees, until you’re completely surrounded by a landscape time forgot. This illusion is enhanced by the rebuilt, 158-meter long flume bridge, which you can flow across like so much old-timey water its way to Smartsville.

After the flume bridge, there’s a wooden switchback wheelchair ramp that leads all the way down to Rush Creek Falls—a great place for a picnic lunch. The water can really rush in late winter and early spring, but in summer, the pools below the flume are calm. Wheel or walk along the trail in autumn (“hike” is really too strong a word), and you can enjoy some seriously brilliant fall color—as in, “Take that, New England! In your face!” Return in the spring, and you’ll find plenty of wildflowers. You should also be prepared to spend an afternoon newt spotting, because they’re everywhere and, well, they’re really cute.

To get to the trailhead from Sacramento, take I-80 to Auburn then go north on Highway 49 to Nevada City. Stop in this little gold rush town for a couple reasons. First, it’s a really neat little slice of California history with a Vermont-style art vibe, complete with independent bookstores and non chain coffee shops. Second, while the potty facilities at the trailhead are adequate, those on the trail itself are in ill repair, so do your business in civilization, as nature intended. Parking is decent, with plenty of disabled spaces. The trail itself can become impassable at certain points (especially after wet weather), so call ahead if you want to check conditions: (530) 477-4788.

Take a trip along the shade-dappled Independence Trail, and you follow in the path of those who searched for peace of mind, sunshine on their shoulders and a little piece of gold to call their own. A stroll down this trail can easily get you two out of three.

About the Author Jason Adair lives and writes in Auburn, where he likes to hike and have picnics with his wife and two children, and the occasional extra-cute newt.